<The Bride Wore Black>
Movie always one of the best way to gain inspiration. It’s a long way from the sunny optimism of Marc Jacobs’ Spring show for Louis Vuitton to François Truffaut‘s famous movie. Vuitton’s women’s studio director, Julie de Libran, found inspiration in the 1968 film, and it gave the label’s pre-fall collection a decidedly darker mood, vampy. The only thing that was in more abundance than the color black was lace. Not just lace the fabric, which she used for a comparatively simple shift dress with patch pockets in suede and mink, but also lace prints and lace jacquard and lace debossing (embossing, but in reverse) techniques on silk twill. She packed a lot of textures into each outfit, and she had a lot to say in terms of silhouette, as well. Continue from spring collection, lifting jackets proportionally exaggerated, shoulder seams are extended with puff sleeves. Whole collection reveal slightly two-dimensional results in oversize-masculine feel with flat doll’s clothes. She took a more classic approach to the Icons portion of the collection.
<2nd Jan London> Christopher Kane isn’t one of those designers who uses a pre-collection as a test for the upcoming season. Instead, he’ll revive old ideas that unable to make it into the main line or refer back to favorite shapes and fabrics. It’s kinda smart way, because designers always coming up with so tons of ideas for every season that can’t reveal them all in one collection. Spring’s monster mash came ’round again, this time with Dracula and the Creature From the Black Lagoon on T-shirts, and the specter of the Werewolf lurking behind shredded denims and refined dresses with patches of silk thread designed to fray at the touch of a claw. “I like the look of things worn in,” said Kane, knowing full well it will be a triumph to translate such a notion at retail. This pre fall collection is friendly to our humid hot weather. I love the sheer overlay Kane signature fabric, knee or floor length are both perfect for party night. But one thing ladies, please flatten your abs before squeeze in the dresses, there are some tricky translucent designs at waistline, oops.